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Power Steering Services, Inc. Power Steering Services, Inc. Warranty claims must be accompanied by a copy of the receipt.* Commercial vehicle units are warranted for a period of 1. Steering Box Rebuild - Low- Buck Saginaw Manual System Restoration. If you own a Pontiac with a “manual” steering system, you’ve likely retained it for three possible reasons: 1) Your Pontiac is a race car and you enjoy the advantages of less weight, parasitic drag, and maintenance compared to a power- steering system, 2) Your Pontiac is restored to factory stock and you don’t want to add options that didn’t come with it, 3) You really enjoy the upper body workout it provides without having to resort to ordering exercise equipment from late- night infomercials. Your Pontiac’s Saginaw manual steering box has probably performed dependably for years- decades even. But as the miles pile up, you may start to notice a bit of play that wasn’t there before. You can adjust the lash between the worm and sector gears, but that may only make things worse if the bushing and bearing wear are what’s actually causing the play. The good news is that rebuilding a manual box is relatively easy and inexpensive using a rebuild kit (PN H1. Harry’s Steering Gear Repair that costs about $6. You need pullers to remove the Pitman arm and races, drivers to install races and a bushing, and an in- lb torque wrench, but these are readily available for loan or rent at auto- parts stores. The rebuild can easily be accomplished over a weekend, including the removal and reinstallation of the box. The Saginaw manual steering box first appeared in GM cars in ’5. Our particular box has a 2. GM cars of the ’6. Regardless of what year Pontiac you’re driving, if it has a manual Saginaw recirculating- ball steering box, the following instructions should provide the guidance you need for a successful rebuild. Before getting your hands dirty, take a look at the diagrams included with this article. The recirculating- ball steering box isn’t difficult to work on, but it’s a bit peculiar in that the “threads” for the ball nut are made up of small steel balls. Ball threads provide two key advantages over cut threads- they last longer and require less driver effort. Hopefully a new set of bearings, a new bushing, and some fresh lube will get your steering box working good as new, but if the wormshaft, ball nut, or Pitman shaft are pitted or severely worn, they will also need to be replaced. Harry’s Steering Gear Repair carries a large parts inventory and can, for instance, supply you with a new wormshaft/ball- nut assembly for about $6. If you have the slightest doubt about the durability of your parts, don’t hesitate to opt for replacements. Before you start the rebuild, you must remove the box from your Pontiac. Begin by disconnecting the rag joint with a 9/1. Next, unscrew the Pitman arm’s 1. Use a puller to remove the arm. Remove the three 5/8- inch- head bolts that secure the box to the frame. Finally, remove the rag joint from the end of the wormshaft. Now let’s get to the rebuild. Midwest Steering offers a full line of new and rebuilt manual and power steering gears. Repair Kit - Saginaw 549 Gears -1' Keyed. Manual Steering Gears. Common applications of this series gear are: Dodge, Ford, Freightliner, IHC, Marmon, Mack. Rebuild your Steering Gear Box. In this video I'll show you how to rebuild your saginaw power steering gear box. That means taking it apart. Power Steering Gearbox Rebuild. This page is always under construction. A few weeks ago, I decided to rebuild my ancient power steering box for my 1973 Bronco. Conclusion. It’s a good idea to recheck the fluid level and lash after the car has been driven a few hundred miles. Remember, the wheels have to be pointing straight ahead for the lash adjustment. If despite your best efforts, you find that there is binding at any point, it’s best to take your car to a professional. Steering is serious business and you cannot take any chances. Also, while power steering boxes share many design features, most notably the recirculating- ball- thread design, they are vastly different in many important respects and require special tools for calibration. Leave them to a properly equipped suspension shop. Manual Saginaw Steering Gear RebuildersNow, go enjoy the precise steering of your rebuilt box. Tools & Supplies. Rebuild Kit: H1. 01. Wheel bearing grease. W- 1. 40 gear lube. Gasket sealant. Flat- blade screwdriver. Box- end wrenches. Pitman arm puller. Bushing driver. Bearing puller. Torque wrench. Hack saw. Punch. Hammer. Needle- nose pliers. TAS Steering Gear Service Manual. Do not try to repair or service a TAS steering gear which has been. Test Studio Automated Testing Made Easy. 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Click the button below to add the Motion Pro Carb/Throttlebody Sync Tool to your Bike Build List. Easily and accurately sync 4. Morgan sells the new Carbtune Pro. Homemade motorcycle carburetor synchronizer featuring four vacuum gauges fitted with air valves. Carb Synchronization Tool by Leanlow. TOPIC: Digital carb synchronizer? Digital carb synchronizer? 9 years 8 months ago #108636. Buy the Emgo Carburetor Synchronizer at Motorcycle Superstore. Emgo Carburetor Synchronizer Complete 4 carb kit: Vacuum gauges. Thexton ADJ TOOL CARB GM. That being the case, it's important to keep them all working in concert, and one of the ways you do that is by synchronizing the carburetors so that each cylinder is always at the same rpm as its neighbors for a given throttle opening. This keeps the crank turning smoothly and results in an engine that idles well, runs sweetly and makes good power. Problems occur when the throttles get out of step with each other. When that happens each cylinder receives a slightly different charge, so the engine is constantly trying to speed up or slow down depending on which cylinder is carrying the load. The continual speed changes, small as they may be, cause the engine to vibrate, make the idle fluctuate and, in the worst case, cause off- idle hesitations and surging at steady speeds. What causes the throttles to go out of synch? 3 and 4 Cylinder Mercury Free Precision Carburetor Vacuum Gauge Sync. Performance Tool Digital Caliper. For those of you looking to sync single carb. R6Messagenet.com > Yamaha YZF-R6 > R6 How-To Guides > How To: Make your own carb sync tool Reply. 10-05-2016 02:57 PM by Motorcycle.com. Typically, multiple carburetors are connected to each other via linkages. When the linkages start to wear and small amounts of play develop, the carburetors get out of phase with each other. In most cases it's simple wear and tear that creates the problem, and because of that, synchronization problems tend to come on slowly. Most bikes go thousands of miles between adjustments, so if your bike is fine when you put it away but refuses to idle properly the next time you ride it, it's a pretty safe bet that an out- of- synch carburetor isn't causing your problem. As an aside, I should mention that before you synchronize anything you'll need to make certain the rest of the engine is up to snuff. If you've got a mill that's down on compression with three tight valves and two fouled spark plugs, you can synchronize the carbs until you're blue in the face and the bike still won't run worth a lick. What You'll Need. Synchronizing carburetors sounds a lot more difficult than it is. As always, the most important tool (besides your willingness to get dirty) is the service manual. The manual will detail not only the basic procedure but where all the adjusters and vacuum ports are located and, of course, any nuances peculiar to your bike. In some instances there may also be a fair amount of motorcycle to disassemble before you can even see the carbs, and in that case the price of the manual will usually be cheaper than the side panel you broke 'cause you didn't realize there was a hidden screw holding it on. Along with the shop manual and a basic set of hand tools, you'll need the following, which with the exception of the cooling fan can be found at any good motorcycle shop. Some sort of cooling fan. No motorcycle, whether air- or liquid- cooled, should be left to sit and idle without the benefit of cooling air blowing across it to prevent overheating. Overheated engines don't respond well to subtle adjustments, and if it gets really hot there's a chance you may damage something. An old window or box fan will work just fine, and new ones can usually be bought for under 2. Home Depot. An auxiliary fuel tank will come in handy if you need to remove the bike's tank to access the carbs. It won't be required in all circumstances, but if the tank has to come off, the backup container is a lot easier to use than an old coffee can with a couple of holes punched through it. Motion Pro makes a nice one that's reasonably priced. A dedicated carb- adjustment tool. Again, this isn't a strict requirement, so check the manual before you spend your dough, but in some cases one of these tools, which usually contains a screwdriver tip and lock- nut socket combined into one unit, will make life a whole lot easier. Vacuum gauges, technically called manometers, are the one must- have item- without them you're dead in the water. Vacuum gauges come in a variety of styles and shapes. Right off the bat I'm going to recommend you pass on the analog- style multiple- gauge setups as well as the type that uses a floating steel ball. Both of those need to be calibrated at each use and require a damping adjustment if you want to get an accurate reading. Mostly they are more trouble than they're worth, especially for the casual user. The mercury type of gauge commonly called a carb stick is very easy to use and requires no calibration. However, there is a slight chance that the mercury will get sucked into the engine if you rev the thing up and then chop the throttle suddenly, and of course if you're the careless type you can also break the tubes or tip the gauge the wrong way and spill the mercury. Which risks turning your garage into a home version of a Superfund cleanup site. My favorite synchronization tool is the digital type, like the Carb. Mate (see this issue's product review, page 9. LEDs to indicate differences between the carbs. The Carb. Mate and other similar tools are very easy to calibrate and use, particularly if you're new to this sort of thing, and while they tend to be more expensive than mercury gauges, I think it's money well spent. You've read your manual, you've got the tools set up and you're ready to go, so let's get started. First make sure you've got plenty of ventilation. For most of this exercise the engine will be running, and while the smell of burning gasoline may be heady, the byproducts of combustion can put you to sleep for a very long time if you're not careful. I suppose I should also pass on the obligatory warning about spilling gasoline all over the place, especially when you're working with a hot engine, so consider it passed. The first step is to remove anything that impedes access to the carburetors. Your manual will provide the details, but in most cases it's going to mean that at least the seat, the fuel tank and perhaps some of the bodywork will be coming off. Stow it all in a safe place before proceeding. If required, connect your auxiliary fuel tank and hang it in a secure location high enough to ensure good fuel flow to the carburetors. If you plan to dangle the thing from the handlebars, make sure there's no chance it'll contact the exhaust pipes. Sometimes things can get a little tricky here, particularly if you're working on something with EFI or a tank- mounted fuel pump. If that's the case you may be forced to keep the tank and its attendant fuel lines and wiring harness connected to the bike while you fettle the adjusting screws. In some instances the tank will be hinged to accommodate you; in others you'll just have to jury- rig something. As always, consult your manual; the answer is lurking in there somewhere. The manual should also identify the correct vacuum ports, which will have either rubber caps or threaded plugs to seal them, and the . If the vacuum ports are threaded, you'll need adapter tubes to plug in your gauge (normally these are supplied with the gauges, but not always), so make sure you know what you'll need beforehand. Following the manual or gauge manufacturer's instructions, connect the gauges in order- gauge number one to cylinder number one and so forth- and if need be, calibrate them according to the manufacturer's instructions. Then position them where they'll be easy to see yet out of the way, making sure none of the hoses foul any of the carb linkages. Double- check your hoses and make certain there's nothing left open or unaccounted for, then start the engine (don't forget your fan) and let it come up to operating temperature before setting the idle to the manufacturer's recommendations. If the carbs are way out of whack, the bike may not idle well. If that's your situation, just get it as close as you can for the time being and proceed. With the engine idling, observe your gauge. In most cases the carburetors should be set to identical marks, but occasionally you'll find some that are set unequally, so double- check the gauge readings against the manual before you start spinning adjustment screws. If you're working on a twin, the procedure is dead simple. Normally there will be only one adjusting screw, and which way you'll turn it depends on the readings you're getting, but my bet is you'll be turning it clockwise to start. As a rule carburetors are fairly sensitive to adjustments, so go slowly and work in small increments; 1/8 turn at a time should be about right until the gauge readings are identical (or at the factory- recommended settings). When you're satisfied with the readings, gently raise the engine speed to a fast idle and then allow it to drop to the base setting to settle the slides. Recheck your work, performing any fine adjustments as required. A word to the wise: You don't have to go crazy here- a fast idle is all that's required. If you're using a mercury gauge and you rev the snot out of the engine, the high vacuum created when the slides drop down can suck the mercury clean out of the gauge and straight into the cylinders. If that does happen it's not necessarily a disaster, but it will put paid to your synchronizing efforts until you can refill the gauge, and you'll have to change the oil and filter to get rid of the ingested mercury. Triples and fours are a little more complicated, though not by much. Essentially the procedure is the same as that of the twins; there are just more cylinders (and adjusting screws) to deal with. When you're happy with the adjustments, rev the engine to a moderately fast rpm- somewhere around 2. If they don't, but they remain aligned at idle, look for a vacuum leak, worn or sticking slide, or some sort of mechanical problem in the linkage. Scientific Poster Template Power. Point (PPT) Templates, PPT Background. 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